Click images to enlarge.

How to recognise it

The larvae are white (almost transparent) maggot-like creatures which are up to 3mm long. If you open up a distorted bud you’ll find them crawling around in a watery liquid. Over 300 larvae can be growing in a single bud.

Lifecycle

Adult midges emerge from the soil from May and fly up to the flower buds to lay eggs. The larvae develop within the buds and feed on them, causing distortions. They then fall to the soil to overwinter inside silk cocoons.

Why it’s a problem

The infestation can cuase flower buds to swell and distort, then fail to open. They may dry up or rot.

Where you are likely to find it

It affects Hemerocallis (daylily) plants. Yellow flowered varieties are worse affectd. Damage occurs throughout the summer but tends to peak in June, declining through July.

How to deter it

Plant later flowering varieties – most of their buds won’t have formed during the gall midge’s egg laying period so they should avoid an infestation.

How to get rid of it

Pick off and destroy any affected buds as soon as you notice them. You may also find it helps to spray the affected plants with an appropriate systemic insecticide when the adults emerge in May and June, but the timing must be right to kill them before they lay their eggs.

Avoid spraying opened flowers as the larvae are unlikely to be on them and you could instead kill beneficial pollinating insects.

Do not compost affected buds as the larvae will simply overwinter in the compost and appear again the following year.

Is it good for anything?!

No.

So if you have chalky soil it’s likely to be shallow, dry, alkaline (or acidic) and nutrient poor! But don’t despair, there are plenty of plants that are up to the challenge.

Trees and shrubs

Chamaecyparis lawsoniana

This conifer will tolerate most conditions, although it prefers a sunny spot. It’s a good choice for hedging in a chalky garden or, if you want an architectural shrub, try Chamaecyparis lawsoniana ‘Erecta Aurea’ (shown here) which grows to only 2 metres tall. It has a compact, conical shape and bright yellow/green foliage.

Cornus mas

Growing up to 4 metres tall, the ‘Cornelian cherry’ is actually a species of dogwood and some varieties have the brightly coloured young stems typical of this genus of plants. It can be grown as a shrub or small tree and is prized for the bright yellow blossom which appears on bare stems in late winter.

Berberis darwinii

This dense, evergreen shrub will grow to 2.5 metres height and spread and is happy in any soil so long as it isn’t waterlogged – so chalk is ideal. Bright orange flowers appear in the spring followed by blue/black fruit in the summer. It requires little maintenance, which is good because the stems are covered in very sharp thorns!

Against a wall

Clematis

These climbers prefer a slightly alkaline soil and are happy on growing on chalk. If you want to cover a wall or shed then Clematis montana var. rubens ‘Tetrarose’ is a great choice. It will climb up to 8m metres and bears violet coloured flowers with yellow centres throughout the summer. Keep its roots cool by mulching well.

Jasminum nudiflorum

The winter jasmine is an excellent partner plant for clematis as it provides winter interest with small yellow flowers appearing in winter and early spring. It doesn’t ‘climb’ like the clematis does, so its gracefully long stems will need to be tied into a support.

Herbaceous plants

Paeonia

Peonies often work well on chalk soils. Paeonia lactiflora ‘Sarah Bernhardt’ is a popular choice. It grows to about 1 metre height and spread and has large, pink double flowers in the summer. Peonies prefer a sheltered spot and will require support as they grow.

Dianthus

Pinks are happiest in well drained and neutral to alkaline soils, so are an ideal choice on chalk. Try Dianthus ‘Doris’ for pale pink flowers over a compact mound of grey/green foliage. It looks great at the front of a bed or border.

Helenium

Perennial ‘sneezeweeds’ such as Helenium ‘Moerheim Beauty’ (shown here) are happy in any soil and cope well with chalk. Their daisy-like flowers appear in summer and are a perfect selection for hot borders. Taller varieties will require support.

Crocus

Preferring well drained soil, crocuses are a good plant for spring colour on chalk soil. Crocus chrysanthus ‘Cream Beauty’ will work well and reward you with creamy flowers that are deep yellow in the centre, from early spring.

Use our plant selector to search for more ideas for chalky soils.

Click image to enlarge.

How to recognise it

The adults are 4 to 6mm long with prominent eyes and powerful back legs which enable them to jump when disturbed. The nymphs are pale yellow/green coloured and usually covered in a distinctive white froth known as ‘cuckoo spit’.

Lifecycle

Female adults lay batches of around 30 eggs in the stems of plants in autumn before dying. The eggs overwinter, hatching in May. The nymphs then start to feed, producing frothy ‘cuckoo spit’ liquid from their anus which is thought to protect them from desiccation and from predators. They mature into adults by late July.

Why it’s a problem

The nymphs feed on the stems, leaves and roots of plants, leaving behind white frothy ‘cuckoo spit’. Generally they cause little damage but growth may be distorted if they feed on the tip of a shoot. The adults feed on sap but rarely cause noticeable damage.

Where you are likely to find it

The nymphs feed from May to July, and continue to feed on sap as adults until the autumn. A wide variety of garden plants can be targetted, but apples, blackberries, pears, raspberries, strawberries, perennial asters, campanulas, chrysanthemums, coreopsis, dahlias, fuchsias, geums, lavenders, lychnis, phlox, roses, rosemary, rudbeckias, solidagos and willows seem particularly susceptible. Generally the infestations occur outdoors but greenhouse plants can also be affected.

How to deter it

Hard pruning in winter or early spring would remove overwintering eggs, but froghoppers cause so little damage that this action is rarely necessary.

How to get rid of it

Usually a strong blast of water from a hosepipe or pressure washer is enough to dislodge nymphs and their froth, or you can simply wipe them off by hand. A systemic insecticide could be used instead.

Is it good for anything?!

No

Other useful information

Various species cause cuckoo spit, including the ‘red and black froghopper’ (Cercopis vulnerata), but the most common in northern Europe is the ‘common froghopper’ (Philaenus spumarius).

“Cuckoo spit”, the common name for the froth excreted by froghopper nymphs, derives from its appearance in late spring at a time when cuckoos are first heard. It has no other link to the bird.

Click images to enlarge.

How to recognise it

Initially soft, brown areas appear at the base of the leaves which may then wilt and collapse, which is followed by a dark brown rot developing at the bases of leaves and stems, with a grey mould appearing on the stems above ground level. Young shoots may blacken and young buds may turn black and wither. Any surviving flowers and leaves develop brown patches. Where tissue has been damaged by the infection, and particularly in damp conditions, a fuzzy grey mould can often be found.

Why it’s a problem

This fungal infection can severely stunt the plant’s growth that season and prevent buds from flowering. So long as it is effectively dealt with the problem shouldn’t have any lasting effects on the health of the plant.

Where you are likely to find it

On peonies (including tree peonies) in spring and early summer, although an infection can continue to spread to other plants throughout the summer as the fungus releases more airborne spores. It particularly occurs in damp conditions and millions of spores can be carried by the wind to infect new plants.

How to prevent it

Ensure that the plant is in well drained soil and that there is good air flow around it. Don’t overwater the plant and try to water at ground level (so the leaves and flowers don’t get unduly wet).

If any parts of the plant is damaged (eg if a stem is snaped) then remove the damaged part cleanly to prevent the fungus infecting the wound.

Deadhead any spent flowers promptly so the decaying petals don’t provide an entry point for the disease.

How to get rid of it

Remove any affected parts of the plant as soon as you spot them, destroying the cuttings (don’t put it on your compost heap). Ideally do this in dry and still conditions which are less favourable to the spread of the fungal spores. Put the cuttings straight into bags so you’re not carrying them loose across the garden (and shaking off spores as you go!).

Cut any affected plants down to ground level in the autumn and destroy the plant material. Remove the top layer of soil (where the fungus may be overwintering), again don’t put it on your compost heap, and replace with fresh soil.

Avoid putting organic mulches too close to the plant as they can create the damp conditions the fungus prefers.

There are no effective chemical controls available to domestic gardeners.

Is it good for anything?!

No

Other useful information

The fungus Botrytis cinerea is very closely related to Botrytis paeoniae and can cause similar symptoms on peonies. It is also a common problem on a wide range of plants.

Click images to enlarge.

How to recognise it

The tiny (about 0.5mm) pale yellow to red eggs can sometimes be spotted along the midribs of leaves in the spring. They hatch into light green or yellow-green larvae which are around 14mm long and have yellow/green-brown heads.

The larvae spin webs to fold or curl leaves, creating shelters for themselves. The light brown pupae which are up to 8mm long may also be spun into these leaf hide-outs, or can be found amongst fallen leaves in the autumn.

The adult moths have a wingspan of up to 20mm and appear white towards the head, darking to brown midway down the wings, although they can be a darker grey colour darkening to almost black.

Lifecycle

Adult moths are mainly nocturnal and appear from July to September. They lay eggs singularly or in batches on either sides of the host plant’s leaves, usually along the midrib, which overwinter and hatch the following spring. The larvae feed from May to early July before pupating.

Why it’s a problem

The larvae feed on young shoots, causing them to distort. They skeletonise or completely consume leaves. Damage may also be done to buds, flowers and fruit.

Where you are likely to find it

Most commonly found on roses (Rosa), but also occurs on flowering cherries or blackthorns (Prunus), brambles (Rubus), hawthorns (Crataegus), apples (Malus), pears (Pyrus), hornbeams (Carpinus betulus), barberries (Berberis) and other tree or shrub species.

How to deter it

Clear up fallen leaves to remove overwintering eggs or pupae.

Remove weeds which can also be a host, such as brambles.

How to get rid of it

Squeeze together leaves which have webbing on them to crush the inhabitants! This should be sufficient to deal with a light infestation.

Nematode biological controls are available to deal with the larvae.

Chemical controls can be used, contact insecticides are usually effective.

Is it good for anything?!

No.

Click images to enlarge.

Features

This is a relatively small tree (growing to 15m tall) with a bushy habit. It bears dark green, ovate and slightly serrated leaves from spring, which yellow in the autumn.

Its attractively peeling bark is orange-red in colour although the freshly revealed bark is much lighter in colour. The stems have white, horizontal lenticels.

Birches are monoecious, both the male and female flowers occuring in catkins. The resulting seeds are also contained in catkins.

What to use it for

Great as a focal point in a large lawn (ideally with the sun behind it so you can see the peeling bark glowing in the winter), or planted in groups to make the most of the winter display. It’s suitable for most styles or garden, though the bushy habit may be considered a little untidy for very formal designs. Its size would make it perfect for all but the smallest gardens.

Many birch cultivars are grafted and the roostock (often Betula pendula) usually has a fairly shallow root system. This means that some plants may struggle to grow underneath them due to the competition for water and nutrients. However, spring bulbs will usually grow quite happily and colours can be chosen to compliment the winter bark display.

How to look after it

Birches don’t respond well to being transplanted, so if you are purchasing a bare-root tree then ensure it is young enough to adapt to the move. This is less of an issue with pot grown plants which should establish more easily, so long as you water them well after planting.

Little maintenance is required. However, you may choose to wash the bark for a good winter display. This is best done just before winter with a cloth and warm water. A good rub should remove most of the algae which would otherwise dull the colour. Don’t be tempted to peel off any bark yourself, this can damage the tree.

How to prune it

Any pruning should be done when the tree is fully dormant, from late summer until early winter. If you prune in late winter or early spring when the sap is ‘rising’ this can cause heavy bleeding of sap and weaken or even kill the tree.

New trees can be trained as a feathered tree or as a central-leader standard. If you want to have a long, clean trunk (or trunks) to display the bark in winter, you should regularly prune off any side shoots when they are very small, to keep the scars from their removal as discrete as possible.

Other than this, pruning should be kept to a minimum as birches are vulnerable to fungal diseases. As birches are fairly short lived trees, it’s often better to replace a tree than try to prune it to a particular shape or size.

How to propagate it

Softwood cuttings can be taken from mid spring to early summer. Once the cuttings have rooted they should be fed regularly.

Grafting is the most common way of propagating birch cultivars. Generally Betula pendula is used as the rootstock, but Betiula nigra can also be used. Grafting should be done with a whip graft or spliced side graft. Make sure that the compost is kep fairly dry until the scion’s buds break otherwise there’s a risk of too much sap bleeding at the graft point. Pot it on and water as normal once the graft takes.

Common problems

Birches can be short lived trees and older specimens are susceptible to fungal attacks, primarily by birch polypore (Piptoporus betulinus). Diseases including birch rust, powdery mildew, and viruses occur on birches. Pests including the birch leaf mining sawfly, birch aphids, moth caterpillars and leaf weevils can be a problem. Witches’ brooms can also occur, which are sometimes caused by the fungus Taphrina turgida on birches.

Other useful information

The common name ‘birch’ is thought to derive from an ancient word for ‘to shine’, presumably relating to the white bark.

The birch tree has been a great resource for centuries, particularly so because of its quick growth rate. Birch wood is used to make a wide range of products including furniture, charcoal, paper and for fish smoking. Its bark is used as paper and in the tanning industry to fragrance leather. The flexible twigs are traditional used for making brooms and ‘the birch’ – a type of whip which was once used for punishments in schools and prisons.

This cultivar was named ‘Red Panda’ by Jim Gardiner of RHS Garden Wisley in reference to the red panda bears which live in the area of China where the plant originates.

Click images to enlarge.

Features

Eventually growing to up to 18m tall (slightly smaller than Betula utilis), this is a medium sized tree with a bushy habit. It bears dark green, ovate and slightly serrated leaves from spring, which yellow in the autumn.

Betula utilis var. jacquemontii tree is prized for its brilliantly white bark which creates a wonderfully ghostly display in winter gardens . The stems have horizontal lenticels which are dusky pink.

Birches are monoecious, both the male and female flowers occuring in catkins. The catkins appear in the spring, the males are longer, brown coloured and hang downwards, whereas the female catkins are shorter, yellow-green and stand upright. The resulting seeds are also contained in cone-like catkins which are initially green before maturing into brown.

What to use it for

Great as a focal point in a large lawn, or planted in groups to make the most of the winter display of bark. It’s suitable for most styles or garden, though the bushy habit may be considered a little untidy for very formal designs.

Try underplanting with snowdrops and spring bulbs for a fabulous winter/spring display under the attractive bare stems.

How to look after it

Birches don’t respond well to being transplanted, so if you are purchasing a bare-root tree then ensure it is young enough to adapt to the move. This is less of an issue with pot grown plants which should establish more easily, so long as you water them well after planting.

Little maintenance is required. However, you may choose to wash the bark for a good winter display. This is best done just before winter with a cloth and warm water. A good rub should remove most of the algae which would otherwise dull the colour. Don’t be tempted to peel off any bark yourself, this can damage the tree.

How to prune it

Any pruning should be done when the tree is fully dormant, from late summer until early winter. If you prune in late winter or early spring when the sap is ‘rising’ this can cause heavy bleeding of sap and weaken or even kill the tree.

New trees can be trained as a feathered tree or as a central-leader standard. If you want to have a long, clean trunk (or trunks) to display the bark in winter, you should regularly prune off any side shoots when they are very small, to keep the scars from their removal as discrete as possible.

Other than this, pruning should be kept to a minimum as birches are vulnerable to fungal diseases. As birches are fairly short lived trees, it’s often better to replace a tree than try to prune it to a particular shape or size.

How to propagate it

Seeds should be collected from the catkins in midsummer. Separate the seeds from the chaf by breaking the catkin apart and gently blowing over the bits, the chaf will be blown away leaving the seeds. They can either be sown straight away in raised seedbeds (avoid sowing on a windy day as they’ll blow away!) or dried then stored in a refrigerator for around 6 weeks to break their dormancy, then sown in containers at 10-15°C. Birches self-seed readily, if you find a seedling them wait until it has two to four leaves and before transplanting it.

Softwood cuttings can be taken from mid spring to early summer. Once the cuttings have rooted they should be fed regularly.

Common problems

Birches can be short lived trees and older specimens are susceptible to fungal attacks, primarily by birch polypore (Piptoporus betulinus). Diseases including birch rust, powdery mildew, and viruses occur on birches. Pests including the birch leaf mining sawfly, birch aphids, moth caterpillars and leaf weevils can be a problem. Witches’ brooms can also occur, which are sometimes caused by the fungus Taphrina turgida on birches.

Other useful information

The common name ‘birch’ is thought to derive from an ancient word for ‘to shine’, presumably relating to the white bark.

Betula utilis was first identified from samples brought back to the West from Nepal in 1820. The species name ‘utilis’ refers to the utility (usefulness) of the wood. The ‘jacquemontii’ variety was first identified in 1841.

The birch tree has been a great resource for centuries, particularly so because of its quick growth rate. Birch wood is used to make a wide range of products including furniture, charcoal, paper and for fish smoking. Early sanskrit writers refer to the use of birch bark as paper for books as far back as the third century, the bark is also used in the tanning industry to fragrance leather. The flexible twigs are traditional used for making brooms and ‘the birch’ – a type of whip which was once used for punishments in schools and prisons.

Click images to enlarge.

Features

Eventually growing to up to 20m tall, this is a medium sized tree with a bushy habit. It bears dark green, ovate and slightly serrated leaves from spring, which yellow in the autumn.

It has a rich, copper- to pinkish-brown bark which becomes pink-white coloured as the tree matures. The stems have horizontal lenticels which are light brown.

Birches are monoecious, both the male and female flowers occuring in catkins. The catkins appear in the spring, the males are longer, brown coloured and hang downwards, whereas the female catkins are shorter, yellow-green and stand upright. The resulting seeds are also contained in cone-like catkins which are initially green before maturing into brown.

What to use it for

Great as a focal point in a large lawn, or planted in groups to make the most of the winter display of bark. It’s suitable for most styles or garden, though the bushy habit may be considered a little untidy for very formal designs.

Try underplanting with snowdrops and spring bulbs for a fabulous winter/spring display under the attractive bare stems.

How to look after it

Birches don’t respond well to being transplanted, so if you are purchasing a bare-root tree then ensure it is young enough to adapt to the move. This is less of an issue with pot grown plants which should establish more easily, so long as you water them well after planting.

Little maintenance is required. However, you may choose to wash the bark for a good winter display. This is best done just before winter with a cloth and warm water. A good rub should remove most of the algae which would otherwise dull the colour. Don’t be tempted to peel off any bark yourself, this can damage the tree.

How to prune it

Any pruning should be done when the tree is fully dormant, from late summer until early winter. If you prune in late winter or early spring when the sap is ‘rising’ this can cause heavy bleeding of sap and weaken or even kill the tree.

New trees can be trained as a feathered tree or as a central-leader standard. If you want to have a long, clean trunk (or trunks) to display the bark in winter, you should regularly prune off any side shoots when they are very small, to keep the scars from their removal as discrete as possible.

Other than this, pruning should be kept to a minimum as birches are vulnerable to fungal diseases. As birches are fairly short lived trees, it’s often better to replace a tree than try to prune it to a particular shape or size.

How to propagate it

Seeds should be collected from the catkins in midsummer. Separate the seeds from the chaf by breaking the catkin apart and gently blowing over the bits, the chaf will be blown away leaving the seeds. They can either be sown straight away in raised seedbeds (avoid sowing on a windy day as they’ll blow away!) or dried then stored in a refrigerator for around 6 weeks to break their dormancy, then sown in containers at 10-15°C. Birches self-seed readily, if you find a seedling them wait until it has two to four leaves and before transplanting it.

Softwood cuttings can be taken from mid spring to early summer. Once the cuttings have rooted they should be fed regularly.

Common problems

Birches can be short lived trees and older specimens are susceptible to fungal attacks, primarily by birch polypore (Piptoporus betulinus). Diseases including birch rust, powdery mildew, and viruses occur on birches. Pests including the birch leaf mining sawfly, birch aphids, moth caterpillars and leaf weevils can be a problem. Witches’ brooms can also occur, which are sometimes caused by the fungus Taphrina turgida on birches.

Other useful information

The common name ‘birch’ is thought to derive from an ancient word for ‘to shine’, presumably relating to the white bark.

Betula utilis was first identified from samples brought back to the West from Nepal in 1820. The species name ‘utilis’ refers to the utility (usefulness) of the wood.

The birch tree has been a great resource for centuries, particularly so because of its quick growth rate. Birch wood is used to make a wide range of products including furniture, charcoal, paper and for fish smoking. Early sanskrit writers refer to the use of birch bark as paper for books as far back as the third century, the bark is also used in the tanning industry to fragrance leather. The flexible twigs are traditional used for making brooms and ‘the birch’ – a type of whip which was once used for punishments in schools and prisons.

Click images to enlarge.

How to recognise it

The adult aphids are 1.1mm to 2.6mm in length and yellow or green coloured. The older adults have dark bands across their body with a dark U shape on the back of the abdomen. Their antennae are slightly longer than their bodies.

Lifecycle

Breeding is parthenogenetic with adults bearing live young (nymphs).

Why it’s a problem

Plants become distorted due to the aphids feeding on their sap and sticky honeydew which the pests excrete can be found on affected plants, which often develops sooty mould. The aphids are also ‘vectors‘ (carriers) for at least 30 different plant viruses. Winged adults spread between plants.

Where you are likely to find it

These aphids infest buds, leaves, flowers and stems of a wide range of glasshouse and house plants. Zantedeschias and cyclamen are particularly susceptible.

They are most problematic betweeen February and May when the populations grow rapidly, but they can cause problems at other times of the year in the right conditions.

How to deter it

Yellow sticky traps can be hung to capture the flying adults. While this does little to control the population it allows you to monitor the number and type of aphids in order to implement appropriate controls.

How to get rid of it

Chemical controls include pyrethrum, fatty acids, plant oils, synthetic pyrethroid compounds (such as bifenthrin), acetamiprid, imidacloprid and thiacloprid.

Is it good for anything?!

No

Back as far as Pliny the Elder (23-79 AD) the mistletoe was used in rituals and medicines. Pliny told of Druids climbing into sacred oak trees to harvest mistletoe with golden sickles. The mistletoe would be caught before it touched the ground to ensure that it didn’t lose its special powers.

To what extent the Druids did use mistletoe in this way is unclear, but the stories persist. For example, in the Asterix cartoons by René Goscinny and Albert Uderzo, the Druid Getafix harvests mistletoe in the way that Pliny describes, using it to create the special potion which gives Asterix his superhuman strength.

Greek, Roman and Norse mythology all contain stories about the humble mistletoe. Perhaps the best known is that of the Norse god Baldr. He and his mother, Frigg, both had dreams of his impending death, so Frigg made every object swear not to harm her son, except the mistletoe, which was considered too young and harmless to take the oath.

The mischievous god Loki heard about this and made a spear or arrow out of mistletoe, which he gave to Baldr’s blind brother Höðr. Not realising what he was doing, Höðr killed Baldr with the mistletoe. As a result, tradition has it, Frigg’s tears became the mistletoe berries and she ordered the plant to grow high in trees so that it would be out of reach and unable to do further harm. Other traditions suggest that she made the mistletoe a symbol of peace and friendship to make up for its part in the terrible accident.

Today mistletoe is hung from the ceiling and used for the traditional Christmas kiss. This probably derives from ancient fertility traditions. It’s easy to see how this little plant became related to fertility when you consider that it retains its evergreen foliage while the deciduous host plant has shed its leaves and that its berries appear in the depths of winter. The forking shape of its branches, with pairs of leaves, were also associated with the shape of sexual organs and you can work out for yourself the symbolism of the sticky juice in the berries! As a result mistletoe was used to encourage fertility, as a medicine, a charm for young ladies looking for husbands, and in the kissing custom we retain today.

As well as representing fertility, the use of mistletoe as a symbol of peace and luck (following the Norse mythology) is common throughout Europe. During the First World War cards sent from the Front often included mistletoe as a message of peace for loved ones.

Tradition also has it that mistletoe brought into the house at Christmas (or mid-winter/new year depending on the custom) should be kept hanging there for 12 months to protect the house from evil spirits. It should then be burned before the fresh mistletoe is brought in.

Find out more about the UK mistletoe, Viscum album, including how to grow it in your own garden.

Mistletoe image courtesy of dan at FreeDigitalPhotos.net